I’ll be going over the settings for an Ender-3 in PrusaSlicer instead to reduce the print time of this Voron part that I took as an example from 2 h 12 min to only 51 min! This won’t be a profile for the next worldrecord speedbenchy but a solid selection of settings for a very fast draft quality profile with changes very similar to what the CURAs extra fast profile uses! This was all about how you can evaluate how fast you should be able to print, but how do you create a fast printing profile in the first place? If you’re using CURA with any sort of Ender-3 type printer, watch Chuck’s video and download his profile with the additional remark on raising the temps a little if you see under extrusions. Though if your speeds necessitate it, give it a try, and you will be amazed by the results! A quick tip: If you notice that your surface appears matte instead of shiny, that’s usually an indication of too low temperatures! You shouldn’t always print that hot because that comes with more stinging, blobs, a higher particle emission, and maybe even material degeneration. Simply raising the temperature can increase the throughput capability and help you lay down significantly more material in the same amount of time. Of course, the printhead needs to be able to move fast, but if your hotend can’t handle the flow, you can tune as much as you want – you’ll always get these under-extrusion artifacts. Still, the point is that flow capability, in my opinion, often gets overlooked in these high-speed profiles or sometimes the potentials aren’t full used. Of course the one of the Ender is rather lowend in that regard and other systems, especially direct ones will perform significantly better at lower temperatures. There is a physical limit what your extrusion system can handle. This also shows why just increasing the flow multiplier won’t help close the gaps if you want to print fast. The thing that’s important here is that the flow remains relatively constant up to 4 mm³/s, slightly drops to around 5% under extrusion at 6 mm³/s, and then just severely plummits after that. This test was done on a basically stock Ender-3 Pro using PLA and a nozzle temperature of 200☌, which is common with many profiles. Here we see the flow rate on the x-axis and the amount of expected under-extrusion on the y-axis. This can be nicely shown in graphs like this one that I regularly make. This and the higher flow resistance create more backpressure, and the extruder gears will slightly start slipping and stripping your filament. Though as soon as you try to feed more and more material through the nozzle, it gets harder for the hotend to melt all of the material properly, making it less viscous. On an ideal printer, and this is what you assume when calibrating your e-steps, the amount of material you tell the printer to feed and how much is really fed are the same. This factor is the material flow rate the printer is able to handle. The limiting factor for both methods is something that’s not that often talked about, people don’t consider or they even only rely on data sheets and marketing. The other extreme is printing with thicker layers and bigger nozzles where you also extrude a lot of material but might lose a considerable amount of details. The typical speedprinting approach is moving your toolhead as fast as possible at relatively thin layer heights and small nozzle sizes so you retain all the details but that requires specialized, light and stiff hardware. A part has a certain weight, and you can lay down the filament for it in different ways. And this is something where movement speed is not necessarily the most important thing. Though printing fast, for me, means printing a model as quickly as possible with still a reasonable quality. But what means printing fast in the first place? Most would probably say that fast printing means moving the printhead as fast as possible, but since many of us only have one of these typical bed slingers like the Ender-3 at our disposal, this seems to be a far-fetched goal.
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